"In a world measured by scores, what if the real measure was soul?" The soul searching question before us at the Commonwealth Club World Affairs in San Francisco last Tuesday. For me, wine has always been about conversation rather than consumption, and I’m truly honored to have been a part of this one.
Last week, lovers of all things Italy joined Jessica Dupuy and Andrea Lonardi (MW),and me to hear stories about the people, the places, and culture, behind Italian wine, and to celebrate the release of their new book, Italianity: The Culture of Italian Wine.🇮🇹🍷📕
Monique Soltani, Andrea Lonardi (MW), Jessica Dupuy
If you missed the live recording or the talk and tasting, grab a glass of something Italian and settle in. There was no way to sum up the story of Italian wine in one hour! But listen by clicking the link below as we give it a try!
What Exactly is "Italianity"?
The first thing I did was look up the definition. Merriam-Webster defines it as a noun: the quality or state of being Italian. But as our guests explained, it’s so much more than a dictionary entry.
For Jessica: It’s a rhythm. A familiar heartbeat. It’s a way of inhabiting the world, historically, instinctively, and with beauty without apology.
For Andrea: It is DNA. As only the second Italian to ever earn the title of Master of Wine, Andrea shared that L’italianità is a story that had to be told by an Italian voice, yet built on the voices of the farmers and legends who define it.
Beyond the Red Spine: 3 Layers of the Journey
We broke the conversation down into the three pillars that are the backbone of this book, written as a "he said, she said" series of essays for wine lovers of all backgrounds.
1. The Grapes: The Red Spine & The White Frontier
Andrea describes the "Red Spine" of Italy through the three grapes the world knows best: Nebbiolo (North), Sangiovese (Center), and Nero d’Avola (South).
Another exciting opportunity is the uncharted territory of Italy’s White Frontier. We talked about the hidden gems from Grillo in the South to the "Real Soave." Jessica gave us a reality check on Pinot Grigio, noting that it has transitioned from a "wine of place" to a "wine of category." To find the soul again, we have to look back to the indigenous roots.
2. The People: Farmers as the New Nobility
One of the most moving parts of the night was discussing the people behind the bottle. Andrea shared his philosophy: “In a world where wine is measured by price, scarcity, and scores, what if the real measure was soul?” We explored stories of legends like Angelo Gaja and Marchese Piero Antinori, but also the "Dignity of the Farmer." Andrea’s journey taught him that winemakers didn't need to imitate the French to be "noble" their rustic edges and "fingerprints" are what make the wine true.
3. The Hero’s Journey: Finding Home
In the book Andrea shares his personal "Alchemist" story from dealing with a stutter and learning English in the Russian River Valley to a pivotal moment in NYC. His mentor told him to put the sales sheets away and said, "Today, we are Italian." It was then he realized he wasn't selling bottles; he was sharing a way of life.
"Don't Napa my Langhe"
Jessica, with her Texas roots and food-writer background, reminded us that in Italy, wine isn’t an accessory, it’s an ingredient. The book dives deep into history one example I loved was about the Spritz (born from Austro-Hungarian soldiers diluting potent Venetian wines) and the importance of preserving traditions like the Plin pasta recipe. Her takeaway? Writing this book helped her find her own "Texan-anity" by reconnecting with the power of place.
Monique Soltani, Jessica Dupuy
"Italian wine must not lose itself in someone else’s idea of greatness. This is the home of the Roman Empire; Italian wine must remember what it has already conquered."
For me this quote captures the theme of the evening and the book: that Italy doesn't need to look to elsewhere for validation because its own heritage and "soul" are already perfecto.
The Night Cap
We closed the evening by raising a glass of some truly fantastic examples of Italian Excellence:
Berlucchi Franciacorta (The sparkle of the North)
Ferrari Brut (Sparkling from TrentoDOC)
Pasqua – Mai Dire Mai Valpolicella Superiore
Zingarelli & Brancaia Chianti Classico (The heart of Tuscany)
Travaligni Gattinara
GD Vajra Albe Barolo
San Polo Brunello di Montalcino
Brancaia Chianti Classico
Cottanera Etna Bianco (The volcanic soul of Sicily)
Planeta Etna Bianco
Final Thoughts
Coming together for in-person events is a wonderful reminder of why I do what I do. Big love and hugs to all the Bay Area viewers who came up to me to say they love Wine Oh! You are the soul of our show; everything we create, we create for you.💕
If you love discovering new regions, hearing amazing stories from people behind the bottle, and embarking on authentic adventures, I invite you to Sip with Monique each week on CBS Bay Area, KCAL Los Angeles, KMAX Sacramento, and KSTW Seattle
Thank you to Jessica and Andrea! We encourage you to purchase a copy of Italianity at your local bookstore and support the Commonwealth Club’s programming at www.commonwealthclub.org.
I’m Monique Soltani - Chin Chin, Y'all